Ferragamo celebrates a Rainbow, Marni a blossoming garden
(ANSA)
- Milan, September 23 - Restraint may have been the storyline in many
women's ready-to-wear collections that debuted at the Milan shows
that wrapped up Monday. Yet this softly choreographed dance - often
shown to a 1970s beat - left the catwalk when Dolce & Gabbana
arrived, with sex and death dominating a Mediterranean-inspired
collection for spring-summer 2015.
The
duo's beloved Sicily, with its Baroque art and strong religious
roots, met Spain's bull fighting and flamenco for a Blood and Sand
effect. Spain blended in with Sicily via the black net sheath, the
severe yet sexy black skirt suits, and black corsets matched with
thigh-high black stockings. The matador's jacket inspired several
pieces in a collection also dominated by red, the colour of blood in
the bullring. That same red was seen in carnations embroidered
everywhere, from dresses with fringed black hems and sleeves, to a
partly sheer skirt mixed with a horizontally striped T-shirt.
The
show was high on drama though the streamlined silhouettes and
romantic patterns and embroideries spoke a straightforward and
universal language. And restraint also left the building at Emilio
Pucci where Peter Dundas sent down the catwalk his unique, colorful
take on the 1970s. Boldly colored tie-dye maxi dresses,
bead-encrusted and embroidered mini dresses, fringed crochet ponchos,
peasant tops with shorts and suede pants with lightning bolts down
the side gave edge and a fresh appeal to a decade which has provided
a wealth of inspiration for Dundas well before it became such a hit
in Milan.
Another
colorful and vintage inspiration, the wedge Rainbow sandal designed
by Salvatore Ferragamo for Judy Garland in 1938, was the star of the
Ferragamo show - a trip down memory lane fit for joyful clothes.
Shoes - the iconic wedge, subtly updated in grey suede, snakeskin
mules and classic boots - were the starting point for a collection
that tapped into the Florentine house's heritage while striking a
chord with the contemporary Ferragamo woman. Creative director
Massimiliano Giornetti designed soft below-the-knee skirts, knitwear,
capes and thread-fringing on feminine jackets. Superb workmanship was
just as interesting a story, with a reported 40 hours of work needed
to craft a ribbed knit dress or snakeskin pieces in the shape of a
coat dress or as an embellishment on streamlined dresses and cropped
jackets.
The
collection's neutral palette was interspersed with bright orange,
turquoise and green to give light to "the new frontier of
luxury" which lies entirely on the "craftsmanship and
distinctiveness" of clothes, said Giornetti. A trip down memory
lane was also du jour at Marni, which celebrated its 20th anniversary
with a flower market at Milan's Rotonda della Besana on the last day
of the shows. The brand, controlled over the past two years by Diesel
founder Renzo Rosso through his holding company Only the Brave, has
turned strong silhouettes, prints, a play on fabrics and bold
accessories into a one-of-a-kind style which appeared more fit for an
art gallery opening rather than a red carpet.
Founder
and creative designer Consuelo Castiglioni's collection for next
spring was no exception. Part glamour, part utilitarian, the creative
designer took the label a step further with monastic pieces -
including a long white linen shift with a black judo belt - while
returning to its origins with vintage Marni prints on jacquard silk.
Statement coat-dresses, leather jackets bonded with lacquered
flowers, and asymmetrical skirts were cut in sculptural silhouettes
which quoted Japan as well as Bhutan, where Castiglioni has recently
travelled - mixing citations from the past with a very on-brand
ability to see into the future.
Marni
was one of the first labels to use chunky jewels on daywear - part
modern art and part ethnic. Mixed with strappy sandals, retro prints
and a play on texture - which produced outfits erupting into a
triumph of white cotton ruffles or chiffon-on-canvas ruching to
create "summer fur", as described by the designer - the
Marni signature look is coming full circle next spring.