Designers redefine formal wear for young urban target

(ANSA)
- Florence, June 23 - As the 86th Pitti Uomo trade fair closed
Saturday after five days of shows and parties to celebrate the 60th
anniversary of the Florentine center for Italian fashion, the
recognized birthplace of all things made in Italy, a new mood and a
new look emerged: a preponderance of shorts worn with extremely
fitted blazers, all in assertive colors, signaling that a certain
optimism and flair have made a comeback. Postwar periods of
yesteryear saw women's skirts shortening to save on fabric. But this
time, in terms of menwear, the story is different.
Although
economic times continue rough the world over, this particular shift
could be a harbinger, not of a lack of raw material, but rather of a
shift in taste and customs demanding that men put their bodies on
display, and perhaps also of the tropicalization of weather through
planetary climate change. The new client identified by the companies
showing at Pitti Uomo is young, trendy, particular about details, and
fussy about the care of his body: the fair's main pavilion even
dedicated an area to a barbershop installed by the century-old barber
supply company Proraso.
Shorts
dominated the runway of Au Jour Le Jour Garcon, a collection designed
by the new enfants terribles of fashion, Mirko Fontana and Diego
Marquez. Hosted by Pitti Italics, they seated their public in a
former customs warehouse, at genuine school desks lent by a Florence
high school. Au Jour Le Jour's imaginary of a "schoolboy"
was both playful and refined, choosing shorts below jackets printed
with toy cars, the letters of the alphabet, lions, jellyfish, and
rhinoceroses. Theirs is a fellow both retro and tongue-in-cheek,
whose wardrobe favors tailored suits in fabrics stolen from women's
couture, in a palette of brilliant reds, greens, and yellows, with a
dash of sequins jazzing it all up in a mischievous masculine-feminine
mix. Likewise, the guest designer at this edition of Pitti Uomo, the
Trivero Group's Z ZEGNA, turned out a collection by designing duo
Murray Scallon and Paul Surridge targeting the active urban dweller:
both formal and experimental, elegant and high-tech, tailored and
sporty, it features slim-fitting trousers and Bermuda shorts paired
with tailored jackets as well as parkas - all in lightweight fabrics,
including high-performance wools, technical cottons and advanced
sportswear. The palette was cement and carbon with a dash of jade
green, citrus yellow, and royal blue, and of course, black and white.
Italian
manufacturing company Lardini placed itself in the hands of
Kansas-born designer and Instagram sartorial style icon Nickelson
Wooster, also known in the blogosphere as the WoostGod. A former
fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, Wooster is
slated to become the brand's ambassador to the United States. Based
on the concept of "imperfection," his collection of jackets
and trousers, some shorts and a variety of accessories featured crisp
shirts in mixed fabrics under narrow, single-button jackets in bold
stripes and polka dots, paired with everything from below-the-knee
Bermudas in excessive volumes to dropped-crotch Ghurkas.