mercoledì 24 settembre 2014

Armani envisions lightness,Versace quiet sophistication

Roberto Cavalli goes back to origins

(ANSA) - Rome, September 22 - A sandy beach and the sea were the backdrop for Giorgio Armani's spring-summer 2015 women's collection showcased in Milan over the weekend.ì 'Sand', a short film by Paolo Sorrentino, known for his award-winning 'The Great Beauty', opened the show with two naked bodies entwined in naval ropes on a beach landscape of the Aeolian islands off Sicily, an area which Armani loves. And the area explored by Armani to craft his collection was indeed one he has visited before, made of superbly elegant tailored jackets, tunics over sheer trousers and long skirts - yet with a light-as-air touch.

Indeed, the erotic scenario set by Sorrentino gave way to layers of fabrics of such lightness they were just a little more than a shimmer. Nude shades including sandy beige and pink, as well as animal prints, starred in the show with crystals and paillettes on key pieces for a touch of exoticism. The draped chiffon dress evoking an Indian sari and accessories like gilded metal necklaces, however, gave an antique rather than an ethnic feel to the light breeziness of Armani's take on elegance for next spring. And if a fresh sea breeze swept through the Armani collection, Versace also took an unexpected turn as sex took a step backwards to send a more sophisticated brand of audacity down the catwalk.

The Versace woman for next spring "is new," Donatella Versace said backstage - bold yet fresh, sensual yet cutting-edge. This new concept, styled to dress the brand's aficionados - 40-something clients "who are younger than ten years ago" - translated into colour-blocked streamlined silhouettes in a strong collection of quiet sophistication. Jackets played a leading role for the first time on a Versace catwalk, starring alongside surprisingly bon ton A-line dresses in new circle motifs, a pattern also worked into a star piece, a kinky white leather jacket. Sharp black paired-down pieces - like a suit with a long jacket over a side-slit elongated skirt - had oversized white stitching, balancing sense and sex into this new aesthetic. Jersey sweatshirts and knit dresses matched with a jacket gave sportswear a new edgy makeover.

Another master of sensuality, Roberto Cavalli, debuted his "light of summer" collection for spring, as described by the show notes, which shimmered in bright shades of yellow, orange, red, green and blue over patterned short dresses and full-length gowns. White lace and black dresses subtly played with shadow and light.

The show-stopping psychedelic dresses that opened his event had a taste of the 1970s though fashioned through a fresh new take on the house's craftsmanship. So did the cotton lace dresses or the perfect jacket and short skirt in croc or the sequined jeans and gowns - plain sexy while shimmering with life beneath the surface. Denim on jackets and slit jeans, the slashes filled with sequins, contributed to create the feeling that the Florentine label was returning to its heyday while infusing new life into its original vocation just as the its sale is still very much on the cards.

Cavalli is allegedly negotiating with Russia's VTB Capital, the investment arm of the country's second-largest lender VTB Bank, the sale of a majority stake in his company. The label has previously proved too expensive for would-be investors with a potential sale reportedly abandoned in 2009.

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